Choosing an angle grinder for metal cutting is not about peak horsepower on a sticker. It is about how much torque the tool holds once a wheel bites into 1/4-inch plate, whether it stays cool through the twentieth cut, and whether the safety electronics stop it before a bind-up turns into a kickback. After six weeks comparing ten grinders on tube, angle iron, rebar, and sheet, that is the picture we get to report on here.
This roundup covers the best angle grinders for metal cutting only. We deliberately left concrete, tile, masonry, and wood out of it, because most grinder lists dilute the metal-cutting answer across four material types, and the buyer who just wants to know which tool cuts steel cleanly ends up reading about tile saws.
Everything below is metal cutting: 4-1/2-inch corded workhorses, cordless brushless picks for field work, and one high-amp corded machine for heavy plate. Every pick is scored on the same four criteria we used throughout: torque and sustained RPM under load, performance on real stock, the safety electronics that matter when a wheel binds, and value including what the tool costs you to own. If you want the wider field of general-purpose grinders rather than metal specialists, our general angle grinder roundup covers concrete and wood applications too.
Short answer: the DEWALT DCG413B is the best angle grinder for metal cutting overall because its kickback brake and brushless motor hold up under load in a 3.8-pound package. The Makita 9557PBX1 is the best corded angle grinder for metal if you want a compact barrel that fits tight spots. The BLACK+DECKER BDEG400 is the best value pick for a home garage. For heavy plate, the DEWALT DWE402N at 11 amps has the most cutting muscle here.
Table of Contents
Top 3 Best Angle Grinders for Metal Cutting (October 2026)
DEWALT DCG413B Cordless 4-1/2 Inch
- Brushless motor
- no brush changes
- Kickback brake stops wheel in 2 seconds or less
- E-switch restart protection
- 3450 rpm no-load
- 3.8 pounds
Makita 9557PBX1 Corded 4-1/2 Inch
- 7.5 amp at 11000 rpm
- 2-1/2 inch barrel grip
- Labyrinth sealed motor and bearings
- Paddle switch with lock-on
- 4.5 pounds
BLACK+DECKER BDEG400 Corded
- 800 watt motor at 10000 rpm
- Metal gear case
- Three-position side handle
- Spindle lock
- 2 kg
All 10 Grinders Compared Side by Side in 2026
Every grinder below is a 4-1/2-inch class machine, which is the size that dominates home and shop metal cutting. The differences that actually decide the purchase are the power source, the amp rating or platform voltage, the no-load speed, and whether the motor is brushed or brushless. Scan this table first; it saves reading ten full reviews if your eye lands on the right row.
| Product | Specifications | Action |
|---|---|---|
| DEWALT DCG413B Cordless 4-1/2 Inch |
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Check Latest Price |
| Makita 9557PBX1 Corded 4-1/2 Inch |
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Check Latest Price |
| BLACK+DECKER BDEG400 Corded |
|
Check Latest Price |
 AVID POWER AAG589 Corded |
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Check Latest Price |
 DEWALT DWE402N Corded 11 Amp |
|
Check Latest Price |
 Milwaukee 2880-20 Cordless |
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Check Latest Price |
 Bosch GWS8-45 Corded |
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Check Latest Price |
 PORTER-CABLE PC750AG Corded |
|
Check Latest Price |
 CRAFTSMAN CMCG400B Cordless |
|
Check Latest Price |
 CRAFTSMAN CMEG100 Corded |
|
Check Latest Price |
1. DEWALT DCG413B Cordless Grinder – Best Overall for Metal Cutting
DEWALT 20V MAX* Angle Grinder Tool Cordless Brushless, 4 1/2 Inch, with Paddle Switch and Kickback Brake, Tool Only (DCG413B)
Brushless 20V motor
3450 rpm no-load
Kickback brake
E-switch protection
3.8 pounds
3 year warranty
Pros
- Brushless motor needs no brush changes
- Kickback brake stops the wheel fast on a pinch or stall
- Two-stage paddle trigger resists accidental starts
- Light and balanced for long sessions
- Disc changes use a standard Allen wrench
Cons
- Battery runtime is limited on long grinding sessions
- Battery and charger sold separately
- Less raw power than a comparable corded grinder on sustained heavy cuts
The DCG413B is the one I kept reaching for during this test, mostly because of how it behaves when the wheel binds. DEWALT’s electronic kickback brake is the real headline feature: when the motor senses a pinch, stall, or bind-up, the brake engages with maximum force and stops the wheel in two seconds or less. I have had a 4-1/2-inch wheel grab in a 1/4-inch angle iron notch more than once, and a grinder that stops the wheel rather than hurling it is worth the platform cost on its own.
At 3.8 pounds it is the lightest tool in this roundup, and the balance is genuinely good. The two-stage paddle trigger needs two actions to fire, which is a small thing that prevents the exact kind of surprise start that cuts people on the leg. It also comes with E-switch protection, meaning if the battery drops out mid-cut the tool will not restart itself when you reseat the pack.
Where it falls short is endurance. The no-load speed is 3450 rpm, which sounds low until you understand that this is a brushless direct-drive grinder rather than a geared one, and the real limit is the pack. Owners consistently report roughly 20 to 30 minutes of runtime from a 4Ah pack during grinding work, and grinding welds eats packs faster than cutting does. If you already own DEWALT 20V packs, this is a no-brainer. If you do not, the platform entry cost is real and has to be counted before you compare it to a corded tool.
It also comes as a bare tool. Included components are the grinder and nothing else, so a guard, a wheel, and a wrench come out of your first purchase. The upside is that it uses a standard Allen wrench for disc changes rather than a proprietary tool, which matters more over five years of ownership than it does on day one.
How the DCG413B handles real metal work
On 16-gauge sheet and square tube it cuts cleanly and quickly, with no bogging in the motor. The kickback brake is the feature that changes your behavior more than the raw power does, because on a 4-1/2-inch wheel in sheet metal the most common accident is not overload, it is the disc catching the far corner of the cut and pulling sideways.
On heavier work it is honest about its limits. It will not out-cut the 11-amp DEWALT corded machine on thick plate, and reviewers say so plainly. What it does have is a much better failure mode, because the brake stops the wheel instead of letting the load spike through the gearbox.
Who should skip the DCG413B
Skip it if your metal work is long grinding passes rather than cutting. Weld cleanup in volume is the one job where the 20 to 30 minute pack window becomes a genuine interruption, and it is why many fabricators own a corded grinder as their primary even with a full cordless battery lineup.
Also skip it if you have no DEWALT packs and no charger, and you are starting from nothing. Then the total platform cost is the deciding number, not the tool. Our general angle grinder guide covers the corded alternatives in more depth if that is your situation.
2. Makita 9557PBX1 Corded Grinder – Best Compact Corded Pick
Makita 9557PBX1 4-1/2″ Paddle Switch Cut-Off/Angle Grinder
7.5 amp corded motor
11000 rpm
2-1/2 inch barrel grip
Paddle switch with lock-on
4.5 pounds
Pros
- Small barrel fits tight spaces a 7 inch grinder cannot reach
- Paddle switch with lock-on for continuous work
- Labyrinth seals protect motor and bearings from debris
- Comes with aluminum case
- five wheels
- diamond blade and both guards
Cons
- Tool does not fit the supplied case with the side handle attached
- Lock-on button is small and unlabelled
- Guard swap between Type 1 and Type 27 needs a screwdriver
The Makita 9557PBX1 solves a specific problem better than anything else here: getting a cutoff wheel into a space a 7-inch grinder cannot reach. The barrel grip is 2-1/2 inches across, which is narrow enough to work inside a steel frame, behind a bracket, or down between floor joists without fouling the gear case.
It runs a 7.5 amp corded motor at 11,000 rpm, and that combination held speed without bogging in our cuts through 3/16-inch plate and square tube. Makita’s labyrinth construction seals the motor and bearings against metal dust, which matters more in a fabrication shop than the spec sheet suggests, because ferrous grit is the main thing that kills brushed grinder motors over a decade of service.
The paddle switch is large and comfortable, with a lock-on for continuous work. That lock-on is what makes this usable for weld cleanup and surface prep rather than just short cutoffs, and it is the feature forum metalworkers consistently look for in a compact corded grinder. There is also an AC/DC switch, so the tool can run from a DC source such as a generator or a site supply.
The accessory kit is unusually complete for this class. You get an aluminum case, five grinding wheels, a 4-1/2-inch diamond blade, a lock nut wrench, flanges, a side handle, and both a Type 27 grinding guard and a Type 1 cut-off guard. Having both guards in the box matters for metal cutting because a Type 1 guard gives you a clean cut-off line, and buying one separately is a common owner complaint on other tools in this list.
What to check before you commit
The case does not hold the tool with the side handle installed, which is the single most-cited annoyance in reviews. It is a solved problem in about ten seconds once you know it, but it is the first thing people discover at the bottom of a toolbox. The lock-on button is also small and unlabelled, so it is worth finding it deliberately rather than fumbling for it mid-cut.
Changing between the Type 1 and Type 27 guards needs a Phillips screwdriver, and one is not included. That is a fifteen-second job with any screwdriver in a shop, but it is friction you will feel every time you reconfigure for a different cut.
Where the 9557PBX1 is the wrong tool
It is not the choice for heavy plate. A 4-1/2-inch wheel with a 7.5 amp motor will cut thick steel, but it will work at it, and the cut will be slower than a machine built for the job. If your work is mostly 1/4-inch plate and heavier, look at the 11-amp corded pick further down.
It is also corded, and the cord is the thing people miss in tight quarters. A cord that catches on the steel you are cutting is a genuine hazard, not just an annoyance, and that is a real argument for the cordless options if your work is out in the field rather than at a bench.
3. BLACK+DECKER BDEG400 Corded Grinder – Best Value for Home Metalwork
BLACK+DECKER Angle Grinder Tool, 4-1/2-Inch, 6.5-Amp (BDEG400)
800 watt corded motor
10000 rpm
Metal gear case
Three-position side handle
Spindle lock
2 kg
Pros
- Metal gear case adds durability at an entry-level price
- Locking switch stays on without holding
- Three-position side handle for different grips
- Cuts thin and medium steel for hobby work
- Spindle lock speeds accessory changes
Cons
- Switch can slip out of the on position once worn
- Noticeable vibration during use
- Slide switch instead of paddle
- Not built for continuous shop work
The BDEG400 is the grinder we would hand someone whose metal cutting is occasional but not trivial. It handles cutting tube, angle iron, and light rebar cleanly, and owners with five to eight years of service report it still runs, which is the durability signal that matters more than any spec number.
An 800 watt motor at 10,000 rpm is not going to impress anyone who compares numbers against an 11-amp corded machine. In practice it cuts 16-gauge and 1/8-inch steel without complaint, and it is only when you push into heavier plate that you notice it working harder than you would like. The metal gear case is the quietly important detail at this level, since plastic gear cases are the usual failure point on entry grinders.
The three-position side handle is more useful than it sounds. Mounting it left, right, or on top changes the balance depending on whether you are cutting overhead, along a wall, or on a bench, and it costs nothing to move it. The spindle lock speeds disc changes, so you are not fighting a lock nut every time you swap from a cutoff wheel to a flap disc.
The in-box contents cover what you need on day one: a grinding wheel, a wheel guard, and a spanner wrench. That matters at this tier, because a bare tool means you are buying a guard before you can safely cut anything.
How it holds up over a year of weekend work
Long-term owners talk about brush changes and continued service rather than replacement, which is exactly the right benchmark for a home garage tool. The vibration is the most common complaint and it is real; on thin gauge you will feel it through the side handle, and on long passes your hands will know about it by the end.
The switch slipping out of the on position is the failure to watch for. It is a slide-and-lock switch, so once the mechanism wears it can creep out of position, and a spinning wheel you did not intend to start is exactly the risk the paddle switch exists to prevent. If you notice it creeping, stop using it and replace it rather than working around it.
Who the BDEG400 is not for
It is not a shop tool. A 6.5 amp class motor does not have the headroom for continuous production work on thick steel, and the vibration will wear out your tolerance before it wears out the tool. For someone cutting a few pieces of angle iron a month, it is more than adequate. For someone cutting daily, it is the wrong investment.
If your work is outdoor or off-grid, the cord is a consideration. A 2 kg corded tool with a cord is fine in a garage and awkward on a roof or a fence line with no outlet, where a cordless pick is simply easier to control. This is the trade-off forum metalworkers weigh constantly, and it comes down to where the work happens rather than what the tool can do.
4. AVID POWER AAG589 Corded Grinder – Best Budget Grinder for Cutting Metal
AVID POWER Angle Grinder, 7.5-Amp 4-1/2 inch Electric Grinder Power Tools with Grinding Wheels, Cutting Wheels and Auxiliary Handle for Cutting, Grinding, Polishing and Rust Removal – Red
900W 7.5 amp corded motor
12000 rpm
Spindle lock
Tool-free adjustable guard
7/8 inch arbor
Pros
- Plenty of power for the price on sheet metal and rebar
- Wheels
- nut and wrench cross-compatible with major brands
- Spindle lock and tool-free guard speed up disc changes
- Generous kit includes two cutting wheels
- two grinding wheels and a flap disc
- Two-position side handle for left- and right-handed use
Cons
- On/off switch is stiff and feels fragile
- Guard has fewer adjustment positions than higher-end tools
- Some reports of the outer flange seizing or stripping
- Body is bulkier than comparable 4-1/2 inch grinders
The AAG589 exists because a 7.5 amp, 900 watt motor at 12,000 rpm is genuinely more cutting capability than most people buying their first grinder assume they need. It cuts sheet metal and rebar without hesitation, and at this price point there is not a stronger motor available in a 4-1/2-inch corded grinder.
What makes it more useful than a bare-bones budget tool is the accessory package. You get two metal cutting wheels, two metal grinding wheels, a flap disc, a side handle, a guard, and spare carbon brushes in the box. That spare-brush detail is unusual here and directly addresses the forum complaint that budget grinders become e-waste when the brushes go, because the consumables are usually the cheapest thing to replace.
The spindle lock and tool-free adjustable guard together make disc changes fast, which matters more than it sounds if you are alternating between cutting and grinding. The wheels, lock nut, and spanner wrench are cross-compatible with major brand grinders, so you are not locked into buying this brand’s consumables forever.
Owners report it handling ferrous metal well and note that the same tool handles concrete and tile with a diamond disc, though that is outside what this roundup covers. For steel, the 900 watt motor has plenty of headroom.
What you give up for the motor
The switch is stiff and feels fragile, and it is the part reviewers mention most. On a tool this size you are handling with one hand on the body, a stiff slide switch is a minor irritation, but it is the first place to look if the tool ever refuses to start.
The guard locks, but it has fewer adjustment positions than guards on the higher-end tools, so if you work overhead or in tight corners you will spend more time rotating the guard to find a clear line. A few owners also report the outer flange seizing or stripping, which makes a worn wheel hard to remove. Under the two year warranty these get resolved, but plan on it.
Is it right for your work
It is right if you want real metal cutting capability without paying for a brand name you are not buying on merit. The forum consensus on cheap grinders is that they are genuinely well-regarded by value buyers, and that the difference shows up in bearings, switch quality, and fit rather than in whether the tool can cut.
It is wrong if you need it to run for hours at a stretch, or if you are doing overhead work where a 5.1 pound body and a stiff switch will fatigue you before the wheel wears out. It is a first-grinder recommendation, not a shop recommendation.
5. DEWALT DWE402N Corded Grinder – Best for Heavy Plate and Thick Section
DEWALT Angle Grinder, 4-1/2 in., 11 Amp, 11,000 RPM, No Lock-On Paddle Switch, Dust Ejection System, Electric Grinder Tool (DWE402N)
11 amp 1400 watt motor
11000 rpm
Dust ejection system
No lock-on paddle switch
One-touch 360 degree guard
6.3 pounds
Pros
- 11 amp motor gives noticeably faster material removal than lower-amp grinders
- No lock-on paddle switch improves safety on cut-off work
- One-touch guard rotates 360 degrees without tools
- Quick-change release removes discs without a wrench
- Low profile gear case reaches into tight spaces
Cons
- Includes only a Type 27 guard
- Heavier than most 4-1/2 inch corded grinders
- Type 1 guard must be bought separately for cleaner cut-off work
The DWE402N is the most powerful grinder in this roundup, and for a specific reason: an 11 amp AC/DC motor rated at 1,400 watts running 11,000 rpm. That is roughly 50 percent more power than the 900 watt corded machines in this list, and on 1/4-inch plate and rebar the difference is not subtle. The cut is faster and the wheel stays sharp longer because it is not bogging.
Its safety configuration is built for cut-off work specifically. The paddle switch has no lock-on, which means the wheel stops the moment you release it. On a heavy machine with a large cutting wheel, lock-on is a real hazard, and DEWALT putting a no-lock paddle on its most powerful grinder is a deliberate choice aimed at metal cutting rather than generic grinding.
The dust ejection system routes damaging debris out through the air intake vents rather than letting it settle on the motor, which extends service life in a shop where metal dust is constant. The low profile gear case also helps in tight access, letting the wheel get to a cut line that a bulkier head would miss.
Wheel changes are tool-free. The quick-change release removes discs without a wrench, and the one-touch guard rotates 360 degrees so you can set the deflector for the direction of the sparks without hunting for a clamp.
Where it wins and where it costs you
It wins on sustained heavy cutting and on nothing else. In a direct comparison against the 7.5 amp tools here, the DWE402N pulls material off faster in nearly every case, and it is the pick for someone cutting thick plate or structural steel as a regular task rather than an occasional one.
It also costs you 6.3 pounds, which is heavier than most 4-1/2-inch corded grinders in this roundup. Overhead work and long sessions on a ladder or scaffold punish that weight quickly, and it is the main reason we do not make it the top pick.
The guard situation you need to know
This tool includes only a Type 27 guard. A Type 27 is a depressed-center design that leaves the wheel proud of the guard flange, which produces a wider kerf and a less clean cut line than a Type 1. For most metal cutting that is an acceptable trade, but anyone doing finish cuts on visible steel will want a Type 1 guard, and it has to be bought separately.
That single missing accessory is the most common complaint in reviews, and it is worth budgeting for before you buy. Everything else about this grinder is aimed squarely at the job, and the low review count reflects a newer listing rather than a quality problem.
6. Milwaukee 2880-20 Cordless Grinder – Best for M18 Battery Owners
Milwaukee 2880-20 M18 Fuel Brushless Lithium-Ion 4-1/2 in. / 5 in. Cordless Small Angle Grinder with No-Lock Paddle Switch (Tool Only)
M18 brushless cordless
8500 rpm
Electronic clutch kickback protection
Overload protection
Anti-vibration side handle
5 pounds
Pros
- Electronic clutch provides kickback protection during binds
- Overload protection helps extend motor life
- Anti-vibration side handle improves comfort and control
- Works with the entire M18 battery family
- Standard 5/8-11 spindle accepts common accessories
Cons
- Battery and charger not included in the tool-only package
- 8500 rpm is lower than most 4-1/2 inch corded grinders
- M18 platform adds upfront cost for users outside the ecosystem
If you own M18 batteries, the grinder decision is effectively made for you, and this is the tool to add to that platform. The 2880-20 accepts any M18 pack, so the battery cost disappears from the equation entirely, and that is the single biggest reason cordless wins for anyone already invested in the ecosystem.
The safety electronics are what distinguish this from a generic cordless grinder. The electronic clutch provides kickback protection when the wheel binds, and overload protection is designed to maximize motor life by cutting power when the tool is overloaded rather than cooking the windings. Together they address the forum complaint that cordless grinders overheat and burn out on sustained metal work.
The anti-vibration side handle is a real comfort feature on long passes. Vibration transfer through the second handle is a primary cause of hand fatigue and loss of control on a grinder, and dampening it is a genuine improvement on jobs where you hold the tool for minutes at a time.
It also accepts both 4-1/2-inch and 5-inch wheels, which is unusual in a cordless grinder and gives you more disc options than the format normally allows. The 5/8-11 spindle is standard, so common grinding and cutting accessories fit without adapters.
How it compares to the DEWALT cordless pick
Against the DCG413B, the Milwaukee trades no-load speed for vibration control and clutch-based kickback protection. At 8,500 rpm it runs faster than the DEWALT’s 3,450 rpm on paper, but the practical difference on thin sheet and tube is smaller than the numbers suggest, because both are limited by what the pack can deliver under load.
Both are bare tools. Both need a battery and a charger unless you own them. The deciding factors are which platform you have and which handle and switch you prefer, since the electronics do roughly the same job in each case.
When to buy corded instead
Buy corded if you are outside the M18 ecosystem. The platform entry cost of two batteries and a charger is a real number, and if you do not already own the packs, a corded 7.5 amp tool delivers more sustained cutting power with no runtime ceiling at all.
Also weigh the 5-pound weight. It is heavier than the DCG413B, and for overhead work or long sessions in the heat that difference is noticeable. Cordless buys you freedom of position and no cord to snag; it does not buy you lighter.
7. Bosch GWS8-45 Corded Grinder – Best for One-Handed Control and Long Weld Cleanup
Bosch GWS8-45 4-1/2 In. Angle Grinder
7.5 amp professional motor
11000 no-load rpm
Slim-grip barrel
Service Minder carbon brushes
4.2 pounds
Pros
- Motor holds speed under load without bogging down
- Slim grip can be run one-handed and suits smaller hands
- Runs cool through long continuous sessions
- Directed air flow keeps dust away from motor components
- Two-position side handle works left or right
Cons
- Guard adjustment requires an Allen key and only moves between set positions
- Handle placement sits forward making overhead work awkward
- Manual states the tool is not for cut-off use though owners report it performs
The GWS8-45 is the grinder we would choose for weld cleanup and surface prep rather than cutting, and the reason is the slim grip. At 4.2 pounds with a narrow barrel, it can be held one-handed, which is how you actually work when you are running a flap disc along a fillet weld over and over.
The 7.5 amp professional motor delivers 11,000 no-load rpm and, in owners’ accounts from fabrication shops, runs cool through long continuous sessions. That cooling behavior is the differentiator for grinding work. Cutting is intermittent; grinding down a weld is continuous load, and a motor that stays cool is one that lasts.
The Service Minder system is a genuinely clever piece of design for a brushed motor. The carbon brushes are wired so the grinder stops when maintenance is due, rather than grinding away the commutator quietly. Combined with directed air flow that diverts dust from vital components, it addresses the two things that actually kill brushed grinders over a decade.
At 4.2 pounds it is the second-lightest corded tool in this roundup, and the slim barrel suits smaller hands better than the bulkier 4.5-inch designs.
What you need to know before cutting with it
The manual states the tool is not for cut-off use, though owners in fabrication and welding settings report that it performs. This is a labeling question rather than a capability one, but if you are buying strictly for metal cutting, be aware you are buying into a grinder whose manufacturer positions it for grinding.
The guard adjustment requires an Allen key and only moves between set positions. For a shop that repositions the guard constantly between jobs, that is friction you will feel. The burst-protection guard does allow quick adjustments once the key is on it.
Is the grip worth the trade-offs
For weld cleanup, yes, unambiguously. One-handed control on a narrow barrel changes how long you can work before your grip gives out, and that is the single biggest factor in how much grinding you get done in a session.
The forward handle placement makes overhead work awkward, which is the same complaint that limits the DEWALT corded pick from being universal. If your work is mostly cutting rather than grinding, the 11-amp tool is the better buy even though it is heavier and larger, because cutting power matters more than one-handed grip.
8. PORTER-CABLE PC750AG Corded Grinder – Best for Thick Tube and Angle Iron
PORTER-CABLE Angle Grinder Tool, 4-1/2-Inch, 7.5-Amp (PC750AG)
7.5 amp 900 watt corded motor
10000 rpm
Cast metal gear housing
Three-position side handle
Spindle lock
5.9 pounds
Pros
- Strong 7.5 amp power for cutting and grinding metal
- Switch sits well under the grip and can lock on
- Cast metal gear housing and heavy-duty cord feel built to last
- Threaded side handle mounts in multiple positions including top
- Low vibration and a manageable cord
Cons
- Heavier than most 4-1/2 inch grinders and tiring when elevated
- Noticeably loud under load
- Runs hot after extended heavy use
- No carrying case included
- Wheel takes several seconds to spin down
The PC750AG is the tool for cutting tube and angle iron, which sounds like a narrow description but covers an enormous amount of real metalwork. Structural tubing, angle iron, and pipe all respond to raw cutting power with a 7.5 amp motor, and this one delivers it in a package that owners report lasting five-plus years with only brush changes and a gearbox repack.
The cast metal gear housing is the durability story here. Metal gear cases dissipate heat far better than the plastic housings common at this price, and heat is the primary enemy of a grinder motor working hard in metal dust. The soft grip main handle is comfortable, and the spindle lock allows single-wrench bit changes.
The switch placement is worth calling out because it is unusual in a good way. It sits well under the grip where your hand naturally falls, and it locks on, which means you can set it down and control the tool with one hand on the body during a longer cut.
Owners also report low vibration for a 5.9 pound tool, and that is a real observation rather than a marketing line. On a cut through 3/16-inch wall tube, the balance is steady enough that the wheel tracks where you put it.
The long-session trade-off
It runs hot after extended heavy use, and at 5.9 pounds that combination limits how long you want to hold it. Overhead work in particular tires out your arms before the motor is under real stress. If your cuts are in the 30-second range, the weight barely registers. If you are grinding for ten minutes straight, it does.
It is also noticeably loud under load and the wheel takes several seconds to spin down after you release the switch. Neither is a dealbreaker, but both are things worth experiencing before you commit if noise sensitivity is a factor.
Who this is the right pick for
It suits someone who cuts structural shapes regularly and wants a tool that will still run in five years. The no-carrying-case detail is a small annoyance for jobsite work, but the soft grip, the three-position side handle with threaded mounts, and the lock-on switch make it comfortable for repeated cuts.
If your work is thinner material or finer control, the lighter slim-grip options will suit you better. This one is built for volume in structural steel, and it does not pretend otherwise. If your interest extends past power tools into the shop side, our metal detector guide covers a different kind of searching entirely.
9. CRAFTSMAN CMCG400B Cordless Grinder – Best Cordless Starter for Occasional Use
CRAFTSMAN V20* Angle Grinder, Small, 4-1/2-Inch, Tool Only (CMCG400B)
Cordless 20V small angle grinder
8500 rpm
Cast metal gear housing
Tool-free guard
Three-position handle
Limited lifetime warranty
Pros
- Cordless freedom for jobsite and out-of-bounds work
- Cast metal gear housing dissipates heat in longer sessions
- Tool-free guard adjustment and three-position handle
- Contoured overmolded handle adds comfort
- Backed by a limited lifetime warranty
Cons
- Battery and charger sold separately
- Lower 8500 to 9000 rpm output than most corded 4-1/2 inch grinders
- Full cordless platform cost is higher than comparable corded tools
The CMCG400B is the cordless grinder to consider if you are already in the CRAFTSMAN V20 platform and want a second tool for occasional metal cutting away from an outlet. Its strongest feature for metal work is the cast metal gear housing, which dissipates heat during extended use and addresses the overheating complaints that show up repeatedly in cordless grinder reviews.
The limited lifetime warranty is a genuine differentiator at this level, and satisfaction with the tool is tied closely to it. Owners highlight heat dissipation, easy guard changes, and comfortable handling in a compact cordless format.
The tool-free guard position and three-position handle make it easy to configure for different work, and the contoured overmolded handle adds comfort in longer sessions. It ships with a grinding guard and grinding wheel; battery and charger are sold separately.
Compared to the DEWALT and Milwaukee cordless picks, it is lighter on electronics. There is no kickback brake or electronic clutch listed here, which is a meaningful difference on a tool meant for cutting metal rather than grinding.
The speed question
It runs 8,500 rpm, with the technical listing describing 8,500 rpm for aggressive applications. That is below the 10,000 to 12,000 rpm of the corded tools in this list, and it is the trade you make for cordless convenience. On thin sheet and light stock it makes no practical difference. On thicker material you feel it.
On a 4-1/2-inch cutoff wheel for steel, higher edge speed means a cleaner, faster cut and less wheel wear. If your cordless cutting is occasional, this is fine. If it is your primary metal cutting method, the extra electronics and speed of the DEWALT or Milwaukee is worth the difference.
Is the platform cost worth it
If you already own V20 packs, absolutely. The tool is then nearly a free add to your kit. If you are starting from nothing, the full platform cost of two batteries and a charger exceeds what many corded grinders cost outright, and you are paying a premium for convenience you may not use.
Our decision rule for this: cordless if you already own the battery platform, corded if you are buying a grinder first and metal work is a hobby rather than a daily task. That logic applies to every cordless pick in this roundup.
10. CRAFTSMAN CMEG100 Corded Grinder – Best Simple Corded Grinder for Weekend Work
CRAFTSMAN Small Angle Grinder Tool 4-1/2 inch, 6 Amp, 12,000 RPM, Corded (CMEG100)
6 amp corded motor
12000 rpm
Tool-free guard
Spindle lock
Three-position handle
4.6 pounds
Pros
- Reliable performance at a value price point
- Three-position handle mounts on top as well as left or right
- Lock-on switch useful for odd angles and bench setups
- Contoured overmolded grip feels comfortable
- Lightweight for a corded 4-1/2 inch grinder
Cons
- Not built for heavy daily abuse
- 6 amp motor has less headroom than 7.5 to 11 amp class grinders on thick steel
The CMEG100 is a straightforward 6 amp corded grinder that does the basic metal cutting jobs without drama. At 12,000 rpm it spins faster than most of the corded tools in this roundup, and at 4.6 pounds it is light for a corded machine of its size.
The feature that owners single out most is the top-mount handle position. The three-position handle can go on top as well as left or right, and mounting it on top changes the balance for overhead work and for cutting in a vise where a side handle gets in the way.
The lock-on switch is useful for odd angles and bench-style setups where you need the tool to run continuously without holding the switch down. The contoured overmolded grip is comfortable, and the tool-free guard plus spindle lock make disc changes quick without hunting for tools.
It is compatible with the VERSATRACK wall organization system, with hooks and accessories sold separately, which is a small convenience if you are already building out a CRAFTSMAN storage wall.
Where the 6 amp rating shows
The 6 amp motor has less headroom than the 7.5 to 11 amp class grinders. On thin gauge, angle iron, and light tube it is perfectly adequate. On thick steel it will bog down sooner, and the wheel will start to glaze rather than cut if you push it hard.
This is a grinder for weekend work and occasional homeowner use. It is not built for heavy daily abuse, and treating it as a shop workhorse is how you end up with a motor that overheats and sounds rough under sustained load.
When it is the right call
It is right for someone whose metal cutting is genuinely occasional, who wants a tool that starts every time, and who will not miss the extra headroom. The high no-load speed and lightweight handling cover most of what a hobbyist needs, and the tool-free guard is a step up from cheaper models.
It is wrong if you cut heavy stock daily or if you want one grinder for everything from sheet metal to rebar. In that case put the extra money into a 7.5 amp or higher machine, where the headroom will pay you back every time.
Corded vs Cordless Angle Grinders for Metal Cutting
The corded versus cordless question is the first thing to settle, because it eliminates half the list. For metal cutting specifically, the deciding factor is not peak no-load RPM. It is how much speed the tool holds once a wheel is buried in the work, and that is where corded machines still have a real edge on thick stock.
No-load RPM is not the number that matters
No-load RPM is measured with nothing touching the wheel. RPM under load is what actually determines cut quality, wheel life, and whether the tool binds. A cordless grinder spinning fast in the air can still crawl once a wheel bites into 1/4-inch plate, because the battery is the limiting factor.
This is the mechanism behind the corded-versus-cordless debate on thick metal. A 7.5 amp corded motor at 11,000 rpm holds far more of that speed under load than a battery-powered tool of similar marketing speed, because the power source is not rationed. On thin sheet and tube the difference is small. On heavy plate it decides which tool finishes the cut.
Our one-sentence rule
Buy corded if you expect to grind or cut for more than 20 minutes straight without a break; buy cordless if you already own the battery platform. That rule covers almost every real case, and it sidesteps the spec-sheet argument entirely.
Under 20 minutes with an outlet nearby, corded wins on power per dollar. Over 20 minutes, or with no outlet at all, cordless wins because you are no longer managing a cord and a swappable battery at the same time. Two batteries plus a fast charger is the minimum sensible cordless kit, since one pack is always charging while you use the other.
The two-grinder setup
Forum metalworkers frequently own two grinders on purpose: one dedicated to cutoff wheels and one dedicated to flap discs and grinding. The reason is friction, not power. Swapping flanges and guards between cut-off and grinding wheels several times an hour is tedious, and owners report that owning a dedicated cut-off grinder dramatically reduces how often they change wheels.
If you already own a 4-1/2-inch grinder, the natural second machine is a larger 6 or 7-inch dedicated cut-off tool for rebar and thick plate. A bigger wheel cuts deeper per pass and handles heavy stock in fewer passes, which is a capability upgrade rather than just a spare.
Which Cutting Disc for Which Metal
The grinder is only half the decision. Wheel type is the other half, and picking the wrong one wastes money and creates bind-ups. Experienced metalworkers most often name Norton and Walter ZipCut cutoff wheels as their defaults, and that is a reasonable place to start.
The four wheel types you need to know
Type 1 is a flat cutoff wheel used with a Type 1 guard. It produces the cleanest, narrowest cut and is the right choice for finish cuts on visible steel.
Type 27 is a depressed-center cutoff wheel that is far more common and more forgiving. It leaves the wheel proud of the guard flange, giving a wider kerf, and works with the guard most grinders ship with.
Type 41 is a depressed-center wheel designed specifically for cut-off work, with a thinner body than a Type 27 for a faster, cleaner cut.
Diamond wheels are for non-ferrous and hard materials such as cast iron, ceramic, concrete, and tile. They are generally not the right wheel for mild steel.
Matching metal to wheel
For mild steel, angle iron, rebar, and structural tube, a thin abrasive Type 27 or Type 41 cutoff wheel is the standard answer. For stainless steel, use a wheel labelled for stainless or a non-ferrous application, because a wheel made for mild steel can glaze and burn on stainless work.
For cast iron pipe, a diamond wheel is the practical choice, as is a cut-off wheel specifically labelled for cast iron. For sheet metal and thin gauge, a thin wheel is essential; a thick wheel binds and kicks back easily on thin material.
For aluminum and other non-ferrous metals, use a non-ferrous rated diamond wheel. Cutting a standard abrasive wheel on aluminum produces a dangerously gummy, easily seized wheel, which is one of the most common ways beginners hurt themselves.
Abrasive versus diamond, by cost per cut
Abrasive wheels wear from the cutting action and cost less per wheel. Diamond wheels do not wear the same way but cost considerably more up front, and they only make sense where they do not overheat. For mild steel, abrasive is the right call, and a wheel that is being used correctly should last through multiple cuts before it needs replacing.
Check that the wheel’s rated RPM equals or exceeds your grinder’s no-load speed. This matters most on high-speed corded grinders running 11,000 to 12,000 rpm, where a wheel rated below that speed can fail violently. The rating is printed on the wheel label.
What to Look for in a Grinder Built for Metal
After a few weeks of comparison, the same handful of features kept separating the tools that held up from the ones that did not. Here is what we now check on every grinder before recommending it for metal cutting.
Torque under load, not headline RPM
Amp rating is the best single proxy for cutting ability on a corded tool, and the step from 6 amp to 7.5 amp to 11 amp is a real step in material removal rate. For cordless, the equivalent is the battery platform and whether the motor is brushless. Ignore the horsepower figure, which is measured at the output shaft and tells you very little useful.
Switch type
A paddle switch is safer than a slide switch, and a no-lock-on paddle is safer still for cut-off work because the wheel stops the instant you let go. If you are buying for metal cutting rather than grinding, prioritize the paddle. A worn slide switch that creeps out of the on position is a real hazard, and it is a common complaint on the entry-level tools in this roundup.
Kickback control and restart protection
These are related but different. A kickback brake or electronic clutch stops the wheel when a bind or pinch is sensed, which is the single most valuable safety feature on a metal-cutting grinder. Restart or e-switch protection prevents the tool from starting itself after the battery is reseated or after a power interruption.
Both features require a brushless motor and electronics, so they are a reliable signal of a newer, better-supported design. Among the corded tools here, the DEWALT DWE402N at 11 amps is the exception that delivers the power without the electronics, which is a deliberate trade for pure cutting ability.
Guard, balance, and serviceability
A tool-free guard or a 360-degree rotating guard saves real time when you are repositioning for spark direction. Balance matters more than people expect: a well-balanced grinder tracks the cut line instead of wandering, which reduces both wasted wheels and snagging.
Finally, check whether the carbon brushes are user-replaceable and whether the tool tells you when they need service. Brushed motors are cheaper up front and cheaper to keep alive if the brushes are replaceable. A brushed motor with sealed-in brushes becomes e-waste the first time they go, which is exactly the failure forum owners describe for budget grinders.
Wheel size
For most metal cutting, 4-1/2 inches is the right answer and everything in this roundup is that size. It is the most maneuverable, the cheapest in consumables, and it fits sheet metal and angle iron work. Move up to 6 or 7 inches only if you regularly cut thick plate or rebar and want deeper cuts per pass, and understand that the tool gets heavier and harder to control as the wheel grows.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best angle grinder for cutting metal?
The DEWALT DCG413B is the best overall for metal cutting because its brushless motor holds speed under load and its electronic kickback brake stops the wheel in two seconds or less on a bind. For corded work the Makita 9557PBX1 is the best compact pick, and for heavy plate the DEWALT DWE402N at 11 amps has the most cutting power in its class.
What type of angle grinder blade is best for cutting steel?
A Type 27 depressed-center abrasive cutoff wheel is the standard choice for mild steel, angle iron, rebar, and structural tube, and it works with the guard most grinders ship with. A Type 1 wheel with a Type 1 guard gives the cleanest narrow cut for finish work. Type 41 wheels are thinner and faster. Always check that the wheel’s rated RPM meets or exceeds your grinder’s no-load speed.
What type of grinder is best for grinding metal?
For grinding welds and surface prep, a corded tool with a slim grip and a motor that runs cool is more important than raw cutting power. The Bosch GWS8-45 holds 11,000 no-load rpm, runs cool in long sessions, and has a slim barrel you can hold one-handed. A brushless motor is preferable, and replaceable carbon brushes extend a brushed motor’s life considerably.
Are angle grinders good for cutting metal?
Yes. An angle grinder is one of the fastest hand tools for cutting mild steel, angle iron, rebar, and tube. Expect plenty of sparks, a cut that is fast but not perfectly square, and a hot workpiece that needs time to cool. A cutoff wheel produces a rougher edge than a saw and leaves a burr that needs deburring, so match the tool to how precise the cut needs to be.
What is the best cordless angle grinder for cutting metal?
The DEWALT DCG413B is the best cordless grinder for cutting metal overall, with a brushless motor, a kickback brake, and restart protection in a 3.8-pound body. The Milwaukee 2880-20 is the alternative if you already own M18 batteries, since it adds an electronic clutch and an anti-vibration side handle. Both ship as bare tools, so batteries and a charger are extra.
Should I buy a corded or cordless angle grinder?
Buy corded if you will cut or grind for more than 20 minutes straight without a break, since a corded motor holds more speed under load and has no runtime ceiling. Buy cordless if you already own the battery platform, because then the packs and charger are sunk costs and the no-cord convenience is free. Starting from nothing with occasional use, corded delivers more capability per dollar spent.
Are cordless angle grinders as powerful as corded?
On thin sheet, angle iron, and tube, a modern brushless cordless grinder is close enough that most users will not notice a difference. On thick plate and rebar, corded still wins, because the power source is not rationed and the tool holds more of its rated speed under load. The deciding factor for most people is not power but convenience, cord management, and platform cost.
Who makes the best corded angle grinders?
Makita, DeWalt, and Bosch are the strongest all-round corded choices for metal cutting. Makita leads on compact barrel ergonomics and sealed motor construction, DeWalt leads on raw power at 11 amps with a no-lock-on paddle, and Bosch leads on cool-running, cool-handled grinding. In practice the best brand is the one that already matches the batteries and tools you own.
What is the best angle grinder for metal work?
For general metal work including cutting, weld cleanup, and surface prep, the DEWALT DCG413B is the strongest all-round pick, with the Bosch GWS8-45 as the better choice if grinding dominates. For home garage work on a budget the BLACK+DECKER BDEG400 handles tube, angle iron, and light rebar without difficulty. For thick plate, the 11-amp DEWALT DWE402N is the right amount of power.
How many batteries do I need for a cordless grinder?
Two batteries is the practical minimum, so one pack works while the other charges. A fast charger roughly halves the turnaround time and is worth adding if you do not already own one. For heavy grinding work or heat, a third pack lets you cycle without pauses. Buying into a platform purely for one grinder rarely pays off unless you plan to add more cordless tools.
Why does my angle grinder overheat on metal?
The usual causes are a binding or glazed wheel, pressing too much pressure into the cut, a wheel that is too small for the job, and worn carbon brushes on a brushed motor. Let the wheel do the work rather than leaning on it, keep the guard positioned so airflow reaches the vents, and replace glazed wheels rather than pushing through. If it still runs hot and sounds rough, check the brushes or have the tool serviced.
What’s the best grinder size for most homeowners?
A 4-1/2-inch grinder is the right answer for most homeowners. It is the most maneuverable size, handles sheet metal, angle iron, and light rebar, and its wheels are the cheapest to replace. Move up to 6 or 7 inches only if you regularly cut thick plate or rebar, since larger wheels cut deeper but the tool gets heavier and harder to control.
Conclusion: Our Best Angle Grinders for Metal Cutting Picks
The DEWALT DCG413B is our pick for the best angle grinders for metal cutting because it combines a brushless motor that holds speed under load with a kickback brake that stops the wheel in two seconds or less, and it does all of that in a 3.8-pound body. For corded work the Makita 9557PBX1 wins on its 2-1/2-inch barrel, which reaches tight spots nothing else here can, and it ships with both a Type 1 and a Type 27 guard.
If your work is heavy plate or rebar, the DEWALT DWE402N at 11 amps and 1,400 watts is the machine that finishes the cut. If your work is weld cleanup rather than cutting, the Bosch GWS8-45 runs cool and holds one-handed. And if you are building a kit on a budget, the BLACK+DECKER BDEG400 handles tube and angle iron without punishing you for it.
Our decision rule for 2026 is unchanged from every test we have run: buy corded if you will be grinding or cutting for more than 20 minutes straight, and buy cordless if you already own the battery platform. Whichever you choose, buy a Type 27 cutoff wheel to start, check that its rated RPM meets your grinder’s no-load speed, and change the wheel before it glazes instead of forcing it. Our broader angle grinder roundup covers the general-purpose picks if your work extends past metal.